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Liz Haskell

Refined Palate

The Pursuit For Perfection.

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Urasawa

  • May 2, 2008
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At 6:45, John, a friend and I were seated directly in front of Hiro, completely ready for our adventure. I am hoping that I have identified most of the sushi correctly, but by the sushi portion of the meal, I had already had enough wine so please forgive me if I misidentify an item.The front of the house problems have been solved as Hiro’s sister, Yoshie, is now handling everything; she is wonderful. Hiro’s Korean sous chef has left and is now working at The French Laundry (Corey Lee spirited him away!) Hiro has enlisted his brother-in-law as his sous so Urasawa is truly a family affair.

Hiro-san was as friendly as ever – down-to-earth, warm and willing to explain each and every dish. (As I said earlier, any mistakes in descriptions are my fault entirely.)

Flower Arrangement

Hiro- flower arrangement
Hiro- flower arrangement

1. Okinawan Spring Seaweed with tiny, little shrimp and topped with Gold Flakes. This was to be consumed in one gulp – spring in a bowl!

Hiro - spring seaweed
Hiro - spring seaweed

2. Kinuta Maki – this was a very labor intensive preparation. Red Snapper and Shrimp is laid on nori with shiso and then very thinly sliced daikon encases the fish to resemble a traditional maki roll. It is topped with finely grated yuzu and a slice of pickeled ginger.

Hiro- Kinuta Maki
Hiro- Kinuta Maki

3. Goma tofu, Kyoto-style. Tofu made from sesame seeds, stuffed with sweet Uni (urchin "roe"), topped with freshly grated wasabi and gold leaf, served in a light dashi seasoned with shoyu and mirin. I love this dish.

Hiro- Kyoto Tofu
Hiro- Kyoto Tofu

4. Toro Tataki- Ohtoro, from Spain, lightly seared topped with Shiso no Hana flowers, Shiso buds, Radish and Gold Leaf

Hiro- Ohtoro
Hiro- Ohtoro

5. Uni Nikogori – absolutely unbelievable.  Fresh Uni, Small Shrimp, Red snapper, Fish eggs served atop Yama no Imo (Japanese Mountain Yam), topped with Pure Gold Flakes.

Hiro- Uni Nikogori
Hiro- Uni Nikogori

Hiro working on a sashimi

Hiro preparing sashimi
Hiro preparing sashimi


 Incredible Ohtoro.

Hiro with toro
Hiro with toro

His brother-in-law working on the uni

Hiro's brother in law preparring uni
Hiro's brother in law preparring uni

6. Sashimi served in a hand carved ice bowl. The Sashimi consisted of Ohtoro, Red Snapper and Santa Barbara Uni placed in a manila clam shell. The wasabi is freshly grated, Hiro’s soy sauce is made by him and the gorgeous Iris flower again defined the beautiful seasonality of this dish.

Hiro- sashimi
Hiro- sashimi

7. Asami Age, a tempura "sandwich" of Fresh Bamboo, Shrimp Paste and more Fresh Bamboo. Many tempura dishes can be greasy – never at Urasawa.

Hiro- tempura sandwich
Hiro- tempura sandwich

8. The next dish was absolutely amazing. Thinly sliced Hokkaido Beef was topped with Matsutake mushrroms, uni and shiso. Then Hiro rolled up the beef in a roll. We were then presented with a bowl to which Hiro added water so that steam immediately erupted. The beef was being steamed in front of us. The beef sat on a grate and obviously the stones had been heated to piping hot. It was served with a “radish” mixture and Hiro insisted that we use a generous amount of radish.

Hiro - prep for the steamer bowl
Hiro - prep for the steamer bowl

Hiro smiling
Hiro smiling


Hiro -the bowl steaming
Hiro -the bowl steaming


Hiro- inside the bowl
Hiro- inside the bowl

Bowl with radish
Bowl with radish

Empty Bowl
Empty Bowl

9. Hoba Yaki - On a giant Hoba Leaf was fresh shrimp, scallop and Hokkaido beef and miso sauce. The dish was being lightly roasted in the Hoba leaf for a couple of minutes over the coals. Yoshie removed the Hoba leaf from the coals to prevent overcooking. Unbelievable.

Hiro- Hoba leaf
Hiro- Hoba leaf

10. Shabu Shabu with Sweet Shrimp (the shrimp were alive and kicking minutes before), Boston scallop, Hokkaido Beef and Foie Gras. Our waiter did the cooking for us – the scallop took only a second with the foe taking the longest. We were given a soup spoon after the foie had been consumed and then had the Shabu Shabu broth as a soup course.

Hiro- Shabu Shabu 1
Hiro- Shabu Shabu 1

Hiro - Shabu, Shabu2
Hiro - Shabu, Shabu2

Hiro- Shabu Shabu Broth
Hiro- Shabu Shabu Broth

Sushi next. Hiro was very specific that he wanted us to eat the sushi within 10 seconds of plating. This became quite a challenge for John as he was snapping the photos and I was trying my best to keep up with the proper descriptions. Hiro also explained that he uses less rice than Masa, about 175 grains of rice per piece of sushi. (Again, if I have mislabeled the fish, I apologize.)

Toro

Hiro-toro
Hiro-toro

I wrote beef, but it sure doesn’t look like that.

Hiro-beef
Hiro-beef

Kanpachi

Hiro- kanpachi
Hiro- kanpachi

Tai with Sudachi

Hiro-sushi- Tai with sudachi
Hiro-sushi- Tai with sudachi

Spanish Mackerel

Hiro-spanish mackerel
Hiro-spanish mackerel

Squid

Hiro- squid
Hiro- squid

Uni

Hiro- uni
Hiro- uni

Razor Clam

Hiro- razor clam
Hiro- razor clam

Mushroom

Hiro - mushroom
Hiro - mushroom

Kohada

Hiro- Kohada
Hiro- Kohada

Needlefish

Hiro- needlefish
Hiro- needlefish

Abalone

Hiro- abalone
Hiro- abalone

Giant Clam

Hiro- Giant Clam
Hiro- Giant Clam

Scallop

Hiro- scallop
Hiro- scallop

Spanish Mackerel Tataki

Hiro- Spanish mackerel Tataki
Hiro- Spanish mackerel Tataki

Hokkaido Beef

Hiro- Hokkaido beef
Hiro- Hokkaido beef

Baby Shrimp

Hiro- baby shrimp
Hiro- baby shrimp

Eel

Hiro-eel
Hiro-eel

Tamago

Hiro- Tamago
Hiro- Tamago

My notes are a mess on this first dessert – all I wrote was Japanese Plum and Jelly

Hiro- plum
Hiro- plum

Sesame Ice Cream with Azuki (Red Bean) and Gold Flakes

Hiro- ice cream
Hiro- ice cream

Musha – Finely Powdered Green tea

Hiro - musha
Hiro - musha

It was an extraordinary evening– certainly not inexpensive, but an experience unlike any other.  

Wines:

1990   Champagne Krug

1998   Corton Charlemagne Delarche 1.5L
2002   Richbourg, Domaine Gros
1988  Sauternes, Ch.  Giraud

 

 

 

 

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Marinus - 2007

  • Apr 21, 2008
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This was a pleasant surprise both in terms of cuisine, ambiance and the over-all hospitality of the place. We arrived and the doorman immediately handled the luggage issues. Escorted to the lobby, a concierge person poured us each a glass of wine and explained the numerous amenities of the property. What a nice beginning!

All of the mini bar items in the room from water, to more bottles of wine and snack bar items are free. The property also has a spa and the staff couldn’t be more cordial and accommodating.

We have known the Chef Cal Stamenov of Marinus for years; he was sous chef under Michel Richard at Citrus. He knew we were coming and had planned a menu for us. There was one preparation for John and one for me. Of course, we shared. Generally, I will let the photos tell the story. Over-all this was a delicous meal that was marked by excellent execution (particularly the fish), "sunshine" ingredients and enough creativity without being fussy.

Amuse #1 - Lobster, Brik Croutons, Avocado Juice

M- lobster bisque
M- lobster bisque

Amuse #2

Poached Beau Soleil Oysters, Potato-Horseradish Gnocchi, Oyster, Shallot, Sherry Veloute and on top a potato crisp topped with California Oscetra Caviar

M-oysters
M-oysters

 Amuse #3

Fava Bean Vichyssoise and Black Truffles with a Grilled Cheese Brioche Sandwich with Black Truffle Slices – This reminded me of Rostang’s famous black truffle sandwich and was delicious.

M-sandwich
M-sandwich

 

First Course

Blue Fin Tuna Tartare and Foie Gras with yuzu emulsion (the dots) and Meyer lemon confit with truffles

M-tuna
M-tuna

 

Seared Monterey Bay Spot Prawn with Fresh Citrus, Cucumber, Tomato, Brioche Croutons and Chilled Cucumber/Avocado Soup poured on top.

M- prawn
M- prawn


M- prawn 1
M- prawn 1

 

Second Course-

Asparagus Ravioli, Parmesan Foam, Asparagus Tips, Cherry Tomato, Parma Proscuitto Breadsticks and Orange Zest

M-asparagus
M-asparagus

 

Seared Day Boat Scallop, Lobster/Prawn Stuffed Dumpling Topped with Truffles, Braised Leek, Black Truffle Beurre Blanc Sauce

M-scallops
M-scallops

 Third Course

Olive Oil Poached Scottish Salmon with English Pea Risotto, Apple-wood Smoked Bacon, Carbonara Sauce (bacon, cream, butter), English Pea Puree, Baby Garlic

M- salmon
M- salmon

 

Loup de Mer, Saute of Monterey Bay Squid, Cippolini onions, Coco Beans, Green Garlic Puree with Oven-dried Tomatoes

M-loup
M-loup

 

Fourth Course

Soft Poached Duck Egg, Duck Proscuitto Cubes, Truffles, Creamy Spinach, Croutons

M-duck egg
M-duck egg

 

Foie Gras, Duck Breast, Arugula, Duck Gizzard, Duck Jus

 

M-foie gras
M-foie gras

Fifth Course

Rabbit Loin, Black trumpet Mushrooms, Tomato, Parsnip Puree and a Terrine of Rabbit Shoulder, Leek/Fava Beans, Whole Grain Mustard, Red Wine sauce

M-rabbit
M-rabbit

 

Japanese Kobe Beef, Black truffle Vinaigrette, Wine Cup Mushrooms, Roasted Beets

 

M-kobe
M-kobe

Sixth Course-

Cheese Course –

Tomme du Berger – cow’s milk, marcona almond

Bleu de Severac – sheep’s milk, quince jam

Correzon – goat’s milk, honeycomb

M-cheese
M-cheese

 

Seventh Course

Meyer Lemon Sorbet, Caramel sauce, Poached Meringue, Tonka Bean

 

M-dessert
M-dessert

Chocolate “Something”

M-dessert2
M-dessert2


Obviously, this was a superior meal - hopefully the photos tell the story.

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Providence - Los Angeles April 2008

  • Apr 7, 2008
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Providence is our go to restaurant for a fine dining meal. From the fine cuisine to the gracious service, this is a wonderful experience. Personally, it is our favorite restaurant in Los Angeles.


Amuse #1

From left to right – Greyhound Vodka and grapefruit, Gin and Tonic and Mojito – we have had this before but it is an excellent way to start a meal at Providence – whimsical, refreshing and fun.

Providence amuse
Providence amuse

 

Close-up of Greyhound

Providence greyhound
Providence greyhound

 

Close-up of Gin and Tonic

Providence Gin and Tonic
Providence Gin and Tonic

 

Close-up of Mojito

Providence Mojito
Providence Mojito

 

Amuse #2

From left to right – house-cured Tasmanian trout salad with small brown rice "crackers" that resembled puffed rice, goat cheese wrapped in pickled hearts of palm and topped with chopped pistachios, and a mug of warm saffron syrup on the bottom and cold fennel soup on top to be taken in one gulp – delicious with the nod going to the trout.